It is important to remember that it is the structure and properties of any chemical, natural or synthetic, that determines the interaction and reactions with our skin. This article is going to get a little heavy on the chemistry but I will try and keep it as concise and simplified as I can, but remember the first line, “it is the structure and properties of any chemical, natural or synthetic, that determines the interaction and reactions with our skin.”

Organic and Inorganic chemistry.

Organic chemistry are compounds that contain carbon atoms excluding carbonates and oxides. This means carbon dioxide CO2 is considered inorganic even though it does contain a carbon atom. It was named organic chemistry because at one time of scientific knowledge it was thought only living things were capable of synthesising carbon containing compounds but is now known these compounds can be synthesised chemically/industrially. This is important distinction organic chemistry is not necessarily related to or derived from living matter and can be made from petroleum or natural gas feedstock.

Inorganic chemistry are compounds that do not contain carbon atoms but include carbonates and oxides which have carbon derived from its ores and minerals. An example is Limestone CaCO3.

For example; Hydrocarbon (chemical containing only Carbon & Hydrogen) Methane CH4 is an organic compound. Crude oil and natural gas are a major source of hydrocarbons but not what we would think of as organic, but hydrocarbons are classified as organic chemistry because they contain Carbon atoms. Salt, NaCl is an example of inorganic compound, although we would consider salt more organic (natural) than hydrocarbons, but because salt does not contain carbon atoms it is classified inorganic. Organic in chemistry, relates to the compound containing carbon atoms (but not always) and not necessarily related to living organisms or matter.

Saturated and unsaturated bonds.

Saturated means that the compound has only single bonds i.e. C - C this is two Carbon atoms ( C ) connected by a single bond. It is chemically stable. Meaning that it doesn't readily react with other chemicals, light, heat, oxygen and metals. Because of the chemical stability of saturated compounds, they do not degrade as readily and have a longer shelf life. For example, Coconut oil contains predominately saturated fatty acids (fatty acids that contain only single bonds) and has a shelf life of 3yrs+

Unsaturated means that the compound contains double bonds i.e. C = C this is two Carbon atoms ( C ) connected by a double bond. Monounsaturated means there is one double bond in the structure as in the case of Oleic fatty acid in Olive oil or polyunsaturated meaning more than one double bond, poly (many), as in the case of Linoleic fatty acid in Vitis V Face TonIQ and why our recommended use by date is 6 months because the multiple double bonds make it chemically reactive and its structure makes it essential, as our body cannot synthesis Linoleic fatty acid as it lacks the enzyme required to insert a double bond in the 6th carbon position. This is why Linoleic acid is called omega-6. The first double bond is in the 6th position.

The double bond has electrons available for reacting with other chemicals, light, heat, oxygen and metals hence it is considered less stable and more reactive, shortening the shelf life.

Antioxidants

Antioxidants are molecules that give up an electron without becoming a free radical (an atom or molecule with unpaired electrons) and in doing so stops the cascading oxidation reactions. Antioxidant defence comprises different mechanisms;

• delaying or inhibiting free radicals production,

• free radical scavenging,

• changing free radicals into less toxic compounds,

• delaying the formation of secondary toxic active species,

• interrupting the chain propagation reaction (chain breaking antioxidants),

• boosting the endogenous antioxidant defence system through synergism with other antioxidants

• chelating metal ions

Squalene and Squalane

Squalene molecular formula C30H50, is a polyunsaturated hydrocarbon with 6 double bonds found widely in nature in both plants and animals. It is required for the synthesis of phytosterols in plants and cholesterol in animals and humans. It is the precursor of steroid hormones (testosterone, estrogen, cortisol) and Vitamin D3. Squalene is approximately 12-13% of human sebum which is secreted by our sebaceous glands to lubricate the skin to protect it against friction and makes it more impervious to moisture entry and loss. Sebum transports fat soluble antioxidants (Vitamin E) to the surface of our skin. It has antibacterial properties, pro and anti-inflammatory functions, is actively involved in wound healing and is slightly acidic supporting the skins acid mantle.

Because of Squalene’s multiple double bonds (6) it is highly reactive and has strong scavenging effect on free radicals generated from UV exposure and provides a powerful antioxidant to protect skin cells from oxidative stress. It appears that Squalene working in tandem with our natural Vitamin E* are the critical oxidative defences of our skin.

*Topical synthetic Vitamin E is poorly biologically active and our bodies are able to identify synthetic Vitamin E.

Squalane is hydrogenated Squalene with the molecular formula of C30H62. Hydrogenation adds 12 more Hydrogen ions and removes the double bonds of Squalene making Squalane a saturated (zero double bonds) hydrocarbon making the chemical highly stable and extending shelf life but removing the antioxidant properties. Squalane is a synthetic molecule.

Following-hydrogenation-squalene-C30H50-will-develop-into-its-oxidized-form-squalane_fig1_348896145

Remembering, “it is the structure and properties of any chemical, natural or synthetic, that determines the interaction and reactions with our skin.” Squalane has a completely different chemical structure and properties from Squalene. Because the double bonds have been removed by hydrogenation its antioxidant benefits have been removed.

SqualEne with an e is the natural compound in our sebum and skin with the photo protective and antioxidant properties NOT SqualAne with an a.

Squalane can be made from plant or animal sources using Squalene as an intermediary or synthetic squalane using petrochemicals.

Don't be fooled Squalane listed as an ingredient doesn't mean its cruelty free as the traditional source of squalene has been deep sea shark livers and illegal fishing is still occurring. Squalane is the saturated form of Squalene in which the double bonds have been eliminated by hydrogenation. Because the resulting Squalane is far less susceptible to oxidation, it is more commonly used in personal care products than Squalene. It doesn't mean it hasn't come from shark liver squalene. Besides we have established that squalane does not possess the same skin antioxidant properties and its role is purely cosmetic and not bio active.

bloomassociation.org/en/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/squalane-bloom-english-1.pdf

robstewartsharkwaterfoundation.org/articles/shark-squalene-in-cosmetics

Squalene and Squalane, the two chemicals have as much in common as chalk and cheese.

Your body makes squalene and a good source in your diet is cold pressed Extra virgin olive oil. Please ONLY ingest Extra virgin olive oil as applying topically will cause skin barrier impairment resulting in greater water loss from the skin, increase skin permeability allowing entry of allergens and irritants, cause inflammation and change the skins sebum to feel greasier and oiley, clogging skin pores and increasing or developing acne. See The Lab article. A Grape and Olive were found in the bathroom. Olive oil should ONLY ever be found in the kitchen.

Squalene is an incredibly important compound for your skin with approximately 12-13% of sebum being squalene. It is also a significant component of your skin. Its role in sebum and skin is to be an antioxidant and protect your skins cells from oxidative damage. Squalane does not have this antioxidant property you are simply applying something that might feel nice and could come from shark livers April Fools.

The cold pressed grapeseed oil found in Vitis V Face TonIQ contains squalene in its pure unadulterated form and is one of the multiple sources of antioxidants in Vitis V Face TonIQ making it so powerful in boosting your skin antioxidant reserves to combat oxidation and oxidative stress in your skin.

Dont be fooled check for the a in squalane.

Image credit: Annie Fraser. Photographer Chien_Yu Fang on Behance.net

https://www.mdpi.com/2227-9059/10/12/3051

An update on the role of the sebaceous gland in the pathogenesis of acne

Methods for Obtaining and Determination of Squalene from Natural Sources

https://lpi.oregonstate.edu/mic/health-disease/skin-health/vitamin-E

Plant Sources, Extraction Methods, and Uses of Squalene

The Occurrence of Squalene in Human Milk and Infant Formula