The true purpose of skincare is to Clean, Nourish, Fortify and Protect.

It is important to only use skincare products that have specific and targeted functional purpose. Products that support skin function without damaging your skin or the environment. If a product doesn't fall into the functional categories of clean, nourish, fortify, or protect, it doesn't serve a purpose in your skincare routine. If it contains petrochemicals, plastic, preservatives, essential oils, fragrance/parfum it is damaging to your skin function and the planet. Is your skincare like the duck in the movie Babe, it doesn't have a purpose?

Clean - The process of cleaning can be achieved using water,* the universal solvent, in combination with a soft organic natural fibre face cloth and gentle physical action. This simple method provides adequate exfoliation without the need for additional products.

Nourish, Fortify and Protect - Vitis V Face TonIQ is a nutrient-rich product containing essential skin compounds and multiple sources of antioxidant action, including super antioxidant proanthocyanidins boosting your skins natural antioxidant defences.

Protect x 2 - Mineral/physical Sunscreen Importance: Sunscreen plays a crucial role in shielding the skin from the harmful effects of UV radiation.

The purpose of sunscreen is to stop the interaction of UV radiation with skin cells and producing radical oxygen species (ROS). The production of ROS is responsible for inducing oxidative stress when our natural defences, antioxidants are overwhelmed. This causes cell membrane and DNA damage. When cell damage occurs the cell cannot replicate correctly or results in mutations resulting in skin changes that we call ageing or more serious inducing photo carcinogenesis. UV radiation can also result in pigmentation and higher concentrations of ROS can damage the main proteins of skin, collagen and elastin. Exposure to UV light can cause direct damage to skin cells through an inflammation reaction and indirect through the induced oxidative stress.

It is estimated that 80% of skin changes are attributed to photoaging and why management of UV radiation exposure is critical to maintaining your skin function and appearance.

Sun damage is cumulative.

UV radiation → ROS → Oxidative stress → Cell damage → Skin changes.

Sunscreen can mitigate UV radiation penetration by either mineral/physical/inorganic action which blocks, scatters and absorbs UV rays as it forms a barrier on the skin surface and converts the energy to infrared heat, which radiates safely away or by a chemical pathway that absorbs into the skin reacts with the UV light energy and produces heat. The active chemicals in chemical sunscreen such as oxybenzone, avobenzone, octisalate, oxtocrylene, homosalate are absorbed by our skin and can enter our bodies circulation system. The heat generated by the chemical absorption of UV radiation can aggravate pigmentation, of particular importance to those who are prone to melasma.

The thought of chemical sunscreens that penetrate into the skin and absorbed into the circulatory system isn't appealing. There are also grave concerns on some active ingredients in chemical sunscreens ability to harm our ecosystems and cause hormonal disruption within our bodies. I have always preferred and used a zinc oxide sunscreen and now believe I have found my forever sunscreen.

Its Australian made and comes in a completely recyclable aluminium tube including the cap. It is rated SPF (sun protection factor) 50+ which filters 98% of UVB in addition is broad spectrum so blocks both UVA & UVB.

Here I outline the process of why Sunslayer is my new second-best friend for my skin. Vitis V Face TonIQ being the first!  And why you should care.

Here are the attributes of Sunslayer sunscreen as per the website sunslayer.com.au

• SPF 50+ Broad spectrum UVA/UVB
• Aussie Made
• Plastic Free
• Recyclable Packaging
• Water Resistant up to 4 Hours
• Non-Greasy/ No White Cast
• Vegan
• Cruelty Free
• Reef Safe/Ocean Friendly
• Fragrance Free
• Suitable for Sensitive Skin
• Safe during Pregnancy & Breastfeeding

Fabulous. But what is in it?

Here are the ingredients for Sunslayer: Zinc oxide, Medium chain Triglycerides, Castor oil, Coco-caprylate, Candelilla wax, Coconut oil, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Isostearic acid, Tocopherol Acetate.

Quick scan of the ingredients reveals that there is no water in the formulation which means there is no need for preservatives YAY. No essential oils or fragrance. No artificial colour. Double YAY.

Also, from the website;

MADE WITHOUT:

PABA, Parabens, BHA/BHT, Benzene, Petroleum, Palm Oil, Mineral oils, Silicones D4/D5/D6, GMO, Talc and Phthalates.

REEF SAFE FORMULA:

NO Oxybenzone, Octinoxate, Octocrylene, Homosalate, PABA, Parabens, Nano particles, Microplastics, 4-MBC, Triclosan, Sulphates SLS/SLES.

Breaking down the ingredients and their purpose and manufacture in Sunslayer sunscreen.

ZINC OXIDE:

Zinc oxide is the key active ingredient in Sunslayer sunscreen, comprising 22.75% or 227.5mg/g of the product. Unlike chemical sunscreens that absorb then denature UV rays, zinc oxide acts as a physical barrier, reflecting scattering and absorbing harmful radiation away from the skin. Sunslayer uses micronized zinc oxide particles, which are about 50 microns in size, significantly larger than nanoparticles.

The safety of zinc oxide nanoparticles has been extensively studied, and the Australian Therapeutic Goods Administration (TGA) conducted a literature review in 2016. The review concluded that the majority of studies do not demonstrate nanoparticle skin penetration (even in compromised skin), suggesting that zinc oxide nanoparticles remain on the skin surface and outer layer of the stratum corneum, without reaching viable skin cells or general circulation. The risk of harm from nanoparticles in sunscreens is considered minor compared to the benefits they provide in protecting against skin damage and skin cancer.

It is important to note that in Australia, sunscreen is classified a drug and not a cosmetic and therefore requires TGA approval prior to sale. Sunslayer TGA certificate on the Australian Therapeutic Goods Register is AUST L 354460

There is a concern with Zinc, like all metals, can act as catalyst for oxidative reactions however because zinc oxide does not reach viable skin cells due to minimal dermal penetration it is likely to be adequately counteracted by our natural cellular defences. A great reason to use Vitis V Face TonIQ to boost your natural antioxidant defences before and after sun exposure.

Zinc oxide is an inorganic compound (does not contain Carbon within the chemical structure) with the chemical formula ZnO. While it occurs naturally as the mineral zincite, most zinc oxide is produced synthetically through the high-temperature oxidation of metallic zinc or zinc ores. It is a white powder that is insoluble in water and is considered the broadest spectrum UVA and UVB absorber. When used as an ingredient in sunscreen, zinc oxide blocks both UVA (320–400 nm) and UVB (280–320 nm) rays of ultraviolet light.

Zinc oxide provides immediate protection against UV radiation upon application and offers additional benefits such as antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and wound healing properties. It forms a coating on the skin, creating a protective barrier with antiseptic and astringent properties. It is photostable and biodegradable,

In summary, zinc oxide in Sunslayer sunscreen acts as a physical barrier against UV radiation, reflecting, scattering and absorbing harmful rays away from the skin. Extensive studies indicate that zinc oxide does not penetrate viable skin cells or the general circulation. Zinc oxide provides broad-spectrum UVA and UVB protection, offers additional skin benefits, and is considered nontoxic for the environment.

MEDIUM CHAIN TRIGLYCERIDES:

Triglycerides are a type of chemical compound composed of a glycerol (glycerin/e) and three fatty acids. Medium chained triglycerides have carbon chains ranging from 6 to 12 carbon atoms. While triglycerides are naturally found in various sources, the highest concentration of medium chain triglycerides is found in coconut and palm oil. They can be produced synthetically through a process called fractionation, which separates the 6-12 carbon medium chain fatty acids from other fats. These isolated fatty acids undergo esterification, either enzymatically using lipase or through a chemical catalyst, to form triglycerides. In the enzymatic esterification process, lipase is filtered out, and the medium chain triglyceride oil undergoes deacidification, bleaching, and deodorizing. The enzymatic process is less environmentally damaging as it avoids the production of toxic byproducts and requires lower reaction temperatures at 50°C compared to the chemical process at 150-200°C.

In mineral sunscreens, medium chain triglycerides serve as dispersing agents for inorganic UV filters like zinc oxide. They also contribute to the formation of an occlusive barrier on the skin. Medium chain triglycerides are clear, colourless, have a neutral odour, non-greasy feel, and exhibit oxidative stability, with an extended shelf life. They are also known as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride. It's worth noting that Sunslayer medium chain triglycerides are not derived from palm oil.

CASTOR OIL:

Castor oil is derived from the castor (Ricinus communis) bean plant, and it primarily consists of approximately 85-92% ricinoleic acid. This thick, glossy oil is used in sunscreen formulations for its water resistance, lubricating properties, ability to thicken and disperse ingredients, and emollient effects. Castor oil exhibits oxidative and thermal stability. The majority of the world's castor oil production comes from India, and the oil can be extracted from castor beans through mechanical pressing, solvent extraction, or a combination of both methods. As the cold pressing method is not mentioned, it is assumed that the castor oil used in Sunslayer is solvent-extracted and refined. In this context, castor oil is used for its physical properties rather than its phytonutrient benefits.

COCO-CAPRYLATE:

Coco-Caprylate, is an ester derived from coconut fatty alcohol and caprylic acid. It is 100% natural derived ingredient but highly processed. To manufacture fatty alcohols, plant oils need to be chemically processed (including esterification, hydrogenation, and distillation). It is added to improve the skin feel of the sunscreen, making it less tacky and greasy, while enhancing spread ability and glide. It helps disperse the zinc oxide and provides a smooth, silky feel upon application. Coco-Caprylate is a biodegradable, non-ionic surfactant often used as a silicone (dimethicone) alternative. In Sunslayer it is derived from renewable source coconut oil, it is highly processed, but an environmentally preferable choice compared to petrochemical-based surfactants and silicones. It is important to verify the origin of the feedstock to ensure it does not come from palm oil. Sunslayer sunscreen is palm oil-free.

CANDELILLIA WAX:

Candelilla wax is a wax obtained from the leaves of the Candelilla shrub (Euphorbia antisyphilitica), native to northern Mexico and the southwestern United States. To produce candelilla wax, the dried leaves and stems are boiled in acidified water, then refined and filtered. It serves as a vegan alternative to beeswax and acts as an occlusive, forming a protective film on the skin and reducing trans-epidermal water loss. In cosmetic formulations, candelilla wax helps stabilise, emulsify, and thicken oil-based formulas, while also providing slip.

COCONUT OIL:

Coconut oil is derived from the coconut palm (Cocos nucifera). It is composed of approximately 90% saturated fatty acids, (fatty acid without double bonds). The main fatty acids in coconut oil include lauric acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid. Due to its high saturated fatty acid content, coconut oil remains solid at 20°C, has a thick and greasy texture and a slow rate of oxidation. Refined coconut oil which has been deodorised to remove its natural aroma has shelf life of 18-24 months. When applied to the skin, coconut oil melts upon contact. It is used here for its emollient properties and oxidative stability.

POLYGLYCERYL-3 POLYRICINOLEATE:

Polyglyerol-3 polyricinoleate is an emulsifier, stabiliser, thickener and anticaking agent. It is food additive E476 and is used in chocolate and compound chocolate manufacture. In cosmetic formulations, it helps adjust the surface tension and viscosity, allowing for easy spread ability and a light skin feel. The production process involves heating glycerol, in the presence of an alkaline catalyst and castor oil fatty acids separately to 200C to create polyglycerol and interesterified ricinoleic fatty acids, which are then mixed to form Polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate. It can be derived from plant sources including soybean oil but is a synthetic compound that is biodegradable and considered non-hazardous. It is soluble in oil and is generally used in cosmetic products at concentrations of 1-3%.

ISOSTEARIC ACID:

Isostearic acid is an isomer of stearic acid, meaning it has the same chemical formula but a different arrangement of atoms. This structural difference makes isostearic acid liquid at room temperature, whereas stearic acid is solid. While it can be found naturally in meat and vegetable oils, the isostearic acid used in cosmetics is synthetically created. It serves as a binder, and emulsifier helping to thicken formulations and as a dispersant preventing clumping of particles. It can be made from animal and vegetable oil origins including palm oil. Sunslayer is vegan and palm oil free so the isostearic acid used is either soy or coconut oil based. Isostearic acid is biodegradable.

TOCOPHEROL ACETATE:

Is a synthetic form of Vitamin E. It can be made from natural or petrochemical sources. Sunslayer claims to not use petroleum-based ingredients. Tocopherol acetate is an ester of acetic acid and tocopherol. Here it is used as an antioxidant to protect the product and extend shelf life. Our bodies are able to distinguish tocopherol acetate as synthetic and its effectiveness as an antioxidant for skin protection is minimal as only approximately 5% is converted to free tocopherol.

I do this process with all ingredient labels. I am extremely dubious of any product that is not transparent with its ingredient’s declaration. Sunslayer is made from synthetically produced ingredients however these ingredients are plant based except for the zinc oxide which is inorganic. The components are biodegradable and not bio accumulative. It sits on top of the skin and acts like a shield to protect the cells from sun damage.

You can find other sunscreen brands with similar ingredients. Why I have swapped to Sunslayer;

• It is completely plastic free from the product to all of the packaging including the shipper.
• 10% of profits go toward restoring coral reefs. Their vision is to plant 10,000 corals in 10 years
• It has a short understandable ingredient list and although synthetically produced is from renewable natural sources such as coconut and soy bean oil. No palm oil or petrochemicals.
• It's Australian made with minimal ingredients.

Sunslayer Sunscreen motto is; Healthy skin, Healthy Oceans.

I am committed to that.

*Oil attracts oil If makeup is oil based for example mascara or mineral sunscreen rub on a tiny bit of castor oil/ coconut oil, blend to lift and then remove with a damp face washer.

https://www.tga.gov.au/sites/default/files/nanoparticles-sunscreens-review-_2016.pdf

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC9220264

https://www.newdirectionsaromatics.com/blog/products/all-about-zinc-oxide.html

https://www.acme-hardesty.com/overview-mct-oil-medium-chain-triglycerides

Triglycerides of medium-chain fatty acids: a concise review

https://www.newdirectionsaromatics.com/blog/products/the-magic-of-mct-oil.html

Castor Oil: Properties, Uses, and Optimization of Processing Parameters in Commercial Production

https://ascc.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/SoB-ApriMay-2022.pdf

https://pubs.acs.org/doi/10.1021/acsomega.3c00591