The fatty acid profile of our skin changes with age, with some fatty acids decreasing and others increasing. Fatty acids form the basis of lipids, a class of molecules that are insoluble in water. Fat, ceramides and cholesterol are examples of lipids. Fatty acids can be saturated (no double bonds) monounsaturated (one double bond) or polyunsaturated (two or more double bonds). The location of the first double bond determines if the fatty acid is classified as a omega 3, 5, 6, 7 or 9. Saturated fatty acids (no double bonds) do not have an omega classification. Non-essential fatty acids can be produced in our bodies from precursors. Essential fatty acids must be supplied to the body either through diet or topically. Linoleic (omega -6) and alpha-linolenic (omega -3) fatty acid are essential as are their corresponding derivatives. All other fatty acids such as oleic, palmitic, stearic are non-essential.

Fatty acid changes in our skin control how our skin regenerative and barrier functions operate and changes contribute to skin changes we call ageing. They are crucial to the proper functioning of our epidermis and our sebaceous glands. The fatty acids of our skin can be incorporated into complex lipids, for example linoleic fatty acid into ceramides or exist in the free form contributing to the acidification of the skin barrier, keeping the skin’s pH lower. The skins pH determines the composition of our microflora this acidic environment encourages the beneficial bacteria naturally present while inhibiting the growth of potentially harmful pathogens. With age the skin’s pH increases from approximately 5 to 6. pH (potential hydrogen) is a logarithmic scale; an increase of 1 pH is a 10-fold change. Higher pH is associated with dry, red and flaky skin.

Fatty acids have multiple functions within our skin, as a source of energy and energy storage, as well as forming the phospholipid bilayer of all cell membranes. They are vital for our skins permeability barrier and are building blocks for complex lipids produced by our sebaceous glands found in our sebum. Fatty acids in our skin act as signalling molecules reducing inflammation and regulating cell proliferation.

The skins fatty acid profile or composition and relative amounts directly influences the function, structure and condition of our skin.

There are significant changes in our fatty acid concentration and composition in the skin with time, exposure to UV, pollution, diet and lifestyle choices.

Levels of saturated fatty acids like palmitic and stearic acid decrease by 15% and 31%, respectively.

Levels of polyunsaturated fatty acids like linoleic acid and 11,14,17-eicosatrienoic acid (ETA) decrease by 7% and 56%, respectively

Fatty acids that increase with age included palmitoleic acid (omega -7) by 67% and oleic acid (omega-9) increased by 22%, both are monounsaturated (containing one double bond) fatty acids. Neither of these fatty acids are classified essential as our body can synthesis both palmitoleic and oleic from precursors. The precursor of palmitoleic acid is saturated palmitic acid and the precursor of oleic acid, in the body is stearic acid. It is logical that as increases in palmitoleic and oleic acid occur in the skin, a coinciding decrease in palmitic and stearic is observed.

We know that oleic fatty acid can have detrimental effects on the skin, including impaired barrier function, increased acne formation, inflammation and skin sensitisation by increasing the permeability of the skin barrier. It can cause atopic dermatitis with continual topical use. A Grape and a Olive were found in the bathroom. Olive Oil should ONLY ever be found in the kitchen.

When palmitoleic fatty acid is oxidised, it produces a compound called 2-nonenal. This compound has been described as having an unpleasant greasy and grassy aroma. This compound is associated with the elderly and is also known as “old person” smell.

As we age the quantity of radical oxygen species (ROS) increase. Simultaneously, the concentration of antioxidants decreases and palmitoleic fatty acid increases. This combination makes it difficult to stop the degradation of palmitoleic acid into 2-nonenal. 

The triggers and biochemical pathways what causes palmitoleic fatty acid to increase by 6 x with age is unknown, these fatty acid changes are observed after 40 years of age in both men and women.

What is known is that disruption, compromise and damage to the fatty acid concentrations and relative percentages have profound effects on skin function and the sebaceous glands. All of the functions of fatty acids in skin are linked, subsequently so are the resulting skin states including the skin’s pH.

Fatty acids act as instructions (signalling molecules) to your skin’s cellular responses and are responsible for regulating,

•       Skin barrier permeability function
•       Keratinocyte differentiation
•       Inflammation mediation
•       Sebum production
•       Immune response

Change the fatty acid profile in the skin, you change the cellular signalling and response.

Commercial skincare messaging is wrong. The fatty acid profile of your skin is critical and anything that disrupts, compromises or damages the fatty acid profile of your skin will change the function, structure and condition of our skin. Skincare cleansers contain surfactants and have the ability to solubilise and remove fatty acids from your skin. Fatty acid removal is responsible for skin barrier physical and functional damage.

Please note that any skincare product that contains both water and oil-based ingredients will contain a surfactant and unlike cleansers are not washed off or removed. Genetics, diet and environmental factors such as UV exposure, pollution and anything that increases ROS and oxidative stress will impact our skins fatty acids.

The total lipid content of skin decreases with age. Fatty acids are the primary structural component of most lipids. Linoleic fatty acid is the predominate polyunsaturated fatty acid in skin and younger skin typically has higher levels of linoleic fatty acid than older skin.

All fats and plant oils have unique fatty acid profile and will modify our skins fatty acids when applied topically. The fatty acid profile of any skincare product needs to be considered as an active as it will change the cellular signalling and response of our skin.

Topically avoid 

• Oils high in palmitoleic fatty acid such as sea buckhorn and macadamia oil. This omega 7 fatty acid is oxidised to 2-nonenal an unpleasant smell described as grassy and greasy and known as “old person” smell.
• Oils predominately oleic fatty acid known to impair skin barrier function. Oils high in oleic fatty acid are, Olive, Avocado, Macadamia, Apricot kernel, Almond, Marula fruit, Carrot seed, Buriti fruit and Plum kernel. Plant butters that are high in oleic fatty acid include Shea and Mango butters. Beware that Canola, Sunflower, Safflower and Soybean have been bred to produce high oleic fatty acid variants and given that oleic fatty acid has a longer shelf life I suspect these variants are being used in commercial skincare.
• Oils and fats that are high in saturated palmitic fatty acid as this is a precursor to palmitoleic fatty acid which is then further oxidised to “old person” smell. Palm and coconut oil are high in palmitic fatty acid.
• Cocoa butter is high in stearic fatty acid which is converted to oleic. 
  
• Tallow is high in oleic, palmitic and stearic fatty acids.

It is important to note that all plant oils are a combination of fatty acids no plant oil is a singular fatty acid.

Vitis V Face TonIQ is blended from cold pressed Australian grapeseed oil which is 66-75% linoleic fatty acid. By applying essential linoleic fatty acid to the skin topically, it supports the fatty acids in a more youthful profile. Coupled with multiple sources of antioxidants including super antioxidant proanthocyanidins that boost our skin’s ability to scavenge ROS and stops the cascading oxidation reactions including stopping the formation of “old person” smell 2-nonenal from palmitoleic fatty acid.

Anything we do that alters the fatty acids of our skin will directly influence the function, structure and condition of our skin.

Vitis V Face TonIQ supports your skins fatty acids to maintain a more youthful profile. 

Younger skin has a higher concentration of linoleic acid.

“Youth juice” as a client calls Vitis V Face TonIQ.

Vitis V Face TonIQ your essential daily dose on nature's luxury for your most nourished and radiant skin.

https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC3943485/

https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC2877242/

2-Nonenal Newly Found in Human Body Odor Tends to Increase with Aging

https://www.mdpi.com/1424-8220/23/13/5857#B14-sensors-23-05857

https://lpi.oregonstate.edu/mic/health-disease/skin-health/essential-fatty-acids

https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/ics.12042